If you already have a regulated 3.3V source from somewhere else in your project, you can connect that directly to the VCC pin. The voltage applied here is regulated to 3.3V before it gets to the processor. This pin is akin to the VIN pin, or even the barrel jack, on the Arduino Uno. If you have a supply that's greater than 3.3V (but less than 12V), you'll want to connect that to the RAW pin on the Mini. Or you could use a wall power supply along with a barrel jack adapter. If you want something that matches the compactness of the Pro Mini, a battery - LiPo, alkaline, coin cell, etc. Pick a power source that suits your project. The Pro Mini doesn't have a barrel jack, or any other obvious way to connect a power supply, so how do you power the thing? The most important factor in any project is what's going to power it. Versatility is what makes this board so great, and you can assemble it in whatever way makes the most sense for your project. The Arduino Pro Mini in the Uncertain 7-Cube Project used a combination of right and straight male headers. Since the FTDI Basic board is equipped with a female header, it's usually best to equip your Mini's programming header with mating male headers, either straight or right-angle. The programming header is a row of six pins on the side of the board, labeled "BLK", "GND", "VCC", "RXI", "TXO", and "GRN". There are a few things to make you aware of though.įirst, decide how you want to connect the FTDI Basic Breakout to the Pro Mini's programming header. We've left it up to you to solder headers or wires into the open through-holes. The Arduino Pro Mini doesn't look like much when you first get it it's as bare-bones as can be. Graphical Datasheet for the 3.3V/8MHz Version Graphical Datasheet for the 5V/16Mhz Version The only difference is the voltage and frequency that the board operates at. The pinout listed on both datasheets are the same. More information about pins can be found in our graphical datasheets. That said, don't let the slower speed scare you away from using the Mini 8MHz is still plenty fast, and the Mini will still be capable of controlling almost any project the Arduino Uno can.Ī4 and A5's location may be very important if you plan on using I 2C with the Pro Mini - those are the hardware SDA and SCL pins. We put a slower resonator on the Mini to guarantee safe operation of the ATmega. The Pro Mini 3.3V runs at 8MHz, half the speed of an Arduino Uno. This means that if you've got peripherals that only work at 5V, you might have to do some level shifting before you hook it up to the Pro Mini (or you could go for the 5V variant of the Pro Mini).Īnother major variation from the standard Arduino lies in the speed at which the ATmega328 runs. Unlike the Arduino Uno, which has both a 5V and 3.3V regulator on board, the Mini only has one regulator. The first glaring hardware difference is the voltage that the Mini operates at: 3.3V. The Mini packs almost as much microprocessor-punch as the regular Arduino, but there are a few major hardware changes you should be aware of before you start adapting your project to the Mini. Comparing the size of a standard Arduino Uno with the (aptly named) Pro Mini.
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